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Have a question? Check here for answers to our frequently asked questions.


No, the Apex was discontinued at the beginning of 2017 and prior to that no custom barrels were ever designed for the Apex.

Yes, all of the center fire barrels are drilled and tapped for scope mounting. Only the Muzzleloading barrels are drilled and tapped for iron sights and scope mounts.

Yes, but we only have the extra full turkey choke that come with the barrels. You can use any Browning Invector (not Invector-plus) or Winchester Win-choke.

Yes. It can, and it will if it is neglected. Stainless steel suitable for rifle barrels (and other gun parts, for that matter) is a different chemical makeup than the stainless steel used for other purposes such as handling corrosive materials or medical use.

This question is asked a lot. The answer is personal preference. Here are a couple points for each:


  • Can only be used for certain calibers
  • Easy and fast to load/unload a rifle
  • Extra magazines can be carried for easy reloading
  • Extra magazines can be expensive

Floor Plate:

  • Can be used for all calibers
  • Fast to unload, but slower than loaded magazines
  • Personalized engraving available
  • Low profile

Blind Mag:

  • Can be used for all calibers
  • Slow to unload
  • Low profile
  • Saves a bit of weight

No, the Elite and Apex are two different frame designs and are not interchangeable.

Bergara Barrels are made with an extractor not an ejector. The extractor pulls the cartridge out far enough to allow the shooter to remove it with fingertips.

No, our barrels are not equipped with a primer extractor. The breech plug is designed for easy primer removal with fingers or a de-capping tool.

No, the CVA Optima Elite and CVA Apex are two different frame designs and are not interchangeable.

The answer is mostly personal preference. A muzzle brake is not required, but it is suggested on the larger calibers (300Win Mag, 338 Lapua, 375 H&H, 7mm RUM, etc). A good brake can also be a benefit for the smaller calibers and for shooters that are just starting out. Muzzle brakes are designed to reduce the recoil of a rifle. The downside is that they are very loud. Hearing protection should always be worn, especially when hunting with a brake. There are different brakes of different designs and they all have different performance levels. We recommend different brakes for different situations. If a shooter is often in the prone position, then a 360° ported brake is not wise, because the blast pressure will cause the material under the brake to be disturbed. If the shooter does not shoot in the prone position, then a 360° brake is acceptable. The benefit of the brake on the smaller calibers is that it will keep you on target so that seeing your impacts on targets and game is possible. Most competition precision rifles are going with some type of brake for this reason.

Keep in mind that some hunting guides do not allow rifles with muzzle brakes due to the noise. Keep this in mind and you can order your rifle with a removable brake.

As of January 2018, we do not have Premier models or B14’s in left handed versions. However, we are planning to come out with them in the future.

Sorry, but no. There are too many things that are out of our control.

B-14 rifles are guaranteed to produce 100-yard groups of 1.0 MOA or better with quality factory match grade ammunition.

The bedding is very important for accuracy. When it comes to bedding a rifle we only use Marine Tex. This is a very heavy-duty epoxy that we use because it will not shrink over time or break down to different cleaning solvents. The downside to marine-tex is that it is very hard to work with and can take multiple bedding jobs to become proficient. All of our gunsmiths have been trained and have years of experience bedding rifles with marine tex.

The best way is to start off with properly bore sighting your rifle. There are many ways to boresight a rifle, but the simplest, best, and cheapest is the old school way:

1. Secure your rifle on the bench with a front bag and rear bag (shooting sled will work as well) with the muzzle pointing down range

2. Remove your bolt

3. Look through the barrel to your 25-yard target

4. Center the target in the middle of the barrel and steady the rifle with the shooting bags

5. Now look through the scope and make adjustments so that the cross hairs are centered in the target

6. Repeat this process until the bore and target are centered

Following these steps will ensure that your rifle is bore sighted. Now take your first shot. You likely will not be dead center, so hold the rifle at the point of aim and adjust the scope to your first shot hole. Take shot #2 and repeat if any fine tuning needs to be made. Take shot #3 to ensure that you are where you need to be. Now move out to 100 or your desired zero and recheck.

There is no set range for a zero, but the average is 100 yards. Some set this farther out. That decision is up to the shooter.

Hunting: There are many different calibers for hunting rifles depending on the type of game that you intend to hunt and the distance. There are too many to list here, but we have a basic breakdown of popular calibers:

308 Winchester – This is a great caliber for just about any size game. It has also been around for a very long time, so there is a large number of manufacturers, bullet weight, and type of bullets.

30-06 Springfield – This is a long action caliber that recoils a bit more than the 308, but is still very manageable. This caliber also follows the same guidelines as the 308.

300 Win Mag – This is a long action magnum caliber that is typically used for large white tail deer, elk, bear and moose. It is a great all-around caliber that has been around for a very long time, so there is a large number of manufacturers, bullet type, and weights.

Tactical/Competition – This category varies as far as what caliber is best, but generally stays as a short action caliber.

308 Winchester – This caliber has been used and is still in use by every branch of the US military both as a battle caliber as well as a sniper caliber. This is a very capable 1000 yard caliber.

260 Remington – This caliber is based on a 308 case, so it will use 308 style DBM which is a common for precision rifles. It is also a great hunting caliber for light skin game due to its penetration.

These are not all of the calibers that we offer, so if have questions or would like to talk with a representative about the best caliber, please feel free to contact us @ 877-892-7544.

The first step is to pick the type of rifle you need or want. We have two basic categories of rifles: Competition/Tactical and hunting.

Our hunting rifles are built to the same standards as our tactical and competition rifles. Theses rifles typically weigh between 5.5-8.5lbs unloaded and without a scope. They are designed to be lighter and more nimble to enable them to excel in different hunting situations.
Our Tactical/Competition rifles vary depending on the type of competition that you shoot as well as what weight range and features you are looking for. These rifles weigh from 9-15lbs unloaded and without a scope. They are designed to be relatively stout.

There is also the option to have a rifle that falls into both categories. Some of our rifles can be configured in a way that can be used for hunting as well as tactical/competition. This “hybrid” rifle typically weighs 8.5-9.5lbs. This weight range can be used for short hunts as well as competitions.

The honing system designed specifically for Bergara Barrels increases the diameter of the drilled hole to the required size through the use of diamond-tipped honing heads in a computer-monitored machine. This machine provides an ultra-smooth bore with no tool marks and results in tolerances much tighter than a process using reamers. Thus, even before the rifling button is pulled through the barrel you have a bore surface that is equal to the finest hand-lapped custom barrels.

All Bergara barrels are all checked for headspace before they are sold. Because of allowed tolerances you may see a small gap between the barrel and frame.

Generally speaking no. Each material has the same potential for accuracy. However, in cartridges that are hard on the chamber throat, such as the .22-250 and the Short Magnums, you may have a longer throat life, and therefore accuracy life, with a Stainless-Steel Barrel.

Please ask them to special order one for you. If this service is not available, contact Bergara Barrels directly.

As long as the barrel fits snugly into the frame when closed there will be no problem. TC frames have a wide tolerance range, so you may actually need to call the Bergara Barrel Customer Support team if the pivot pin for a particular barrel is loose or the barrel feels loose on the frame.

Every barrel is going to shoot differently. Like any other rifle, testing with good ammunition will allow you to find the best choice for your needs.

There are many calibers that perform better with longer barrels, but it is all relevant to the type of shooting and or hunting that you choose to do. Most of our rifles come with 22” and 24” barrels. It is optional to have as short as 18” or as long as 28”. With a 27” or 28” barrel on a sporting rifle like our BCR13 Sport Hunter, then you will find that the rifle handles different and has a slightly different balance point. That long barrel is harder to maneuver in the woods as well.

With most calibers, a 20-24” barrel on either a Sporting rifle or precision rifle will suit all of your needs for accuracy and portability.

The lightweight #2 barrels are limited to 20” or less. This is because these barrels are so thin that it will suffer accuracy issues with longer barrels.

We use our own breech plug design. T/C branded breech plugs (including Speed-Breech) will not work in the Bergara Muzzleloading Barrels.

This warranty covers defects in materials or workmanship from the factory.

Bergara offers both Matte Blue and Bead Blasted Stainless Steel finishes.

Ask a dozen, well-qualified gunsmiths this question and you will get a dozen, well-qualified, but different answers. The correct method is the one that works best for you. But here are some guidelines:
Use the best quality cleaning rods, patches and brushes you can afford. All the cleaning tools you could buy will not cost a fraction of the cost of replacing a ruined barrel. Buy a good quality rod with a ball bearing, rotating handle. This type of handle allows the brush and patch to accurately follow the twist in the barrel. This action allows for efficient cleaning of the bottom of the groove, especially in the corner where the groove meets the land. Buy brushes with brass wire cores. Steel cores can damage your barrel should one bend or otherwise go awry while in the bore. Buy a good quality brass jag for each caliber rifle you own. Whether you “wrap” or “pierce” the patch is up to you. But keep your jag clean. Grit that gets embedded in a soft brass jag acts like a file if it contacts the delicate inside of your bore. Most all of the solvents currently on the market will do a great job. Follow the directions on the chemical’s container carefully. NEVER mix types of solvents as undesirable chemical reactions can occur. Patches should be cotton or cotton flannel only. Cheap synthetic patches do not absorb solvents and carry away the fouling you are trying to clean out of your barrel.
PROCEEDURE- Wet a patch thoroughly and pass it through the bore. Always clean from the breech if possible. The use of a bore guide, if available, is highly recommended. Allow this solvent to sit in the bore a minute or two. Using a proper sized brush wet with solvent, take several full-length strokes through the barrel. It is always best to push the brush completely out of the barrel before reversing it. Push one wet and several dry patches through the bore and inspect. Repeat as necessary until clean. Finish the job with a patch wet with common rubbing alcohol to remove any residual solvent and a light coating of good quality gun oil. HOW CLEAN? This is where many shooters get carried away. You can clean and clean for hours and still get traces of fouling or other material on the patch. Do a good job, don’t expect miracles, then get out and shoot some more. You will likely find that your barrel shoots as good after a thorough 20-minute cleaning job as it does after a 3 hour marathon. Rule of thumb- if your barrel is shooting accurately, you are doing a good job cleaning.

The purpose of the break-in procedure is to smooth away tiny burrs and imperfections from the surface of the bore. Because of the honing system used in place of bore reamers, the Bergara Barrel has a mirror-like bore surface prior to and after button rifling, little or no break-in is needed.

If you still prefer to follow a break-in procedure, and many people do, we recommend the following:

Clean the barrel thoroughly after each shot for 5 to 10 shots. Then clean thoroughly after each 5 shot group until you reach 50 shots. Don’t waste time and ammo, use this break-in time to improve your shooting skills and select the factory ammo that gives you the best performance. Make every shot count.

The Bergara B14s are built to accept Remington 700 style scope mounts and are threaded for #6-48. The Premier series are threaded to #8-40.

That depends on which barrel you purchase. Twist rates start at 1:28 for the muzzleloading barrel, the .45-70 barrel has a 1:20 twist and 7mm-08 has a 1:9. All the others have a 1:10 twist. All Bergara Barrels are right hand twist.

Twist rate is the rate at which a bullet spins as it travels out of the barrel. For example: a barrel with a 1:10 twist such as a .223 means that the bullet will complete one revolution every ten inches of travel down the bore.

Contact the Bergara Barrels Customer Support team to arrange for the return and repair of your Bergara product.

First the solid bars of steel are straightened. Many barrel companies skip this step, but we have found that this is critical to the drilling of a straight hole. The steel bar is then deep-hole drilled (often called “gun-drilling”, even outside of our industry) from end to end with a slightly undersized drill. A honing machine smoothes and hones the hole to the required size to receive the rifling button. The barrel is then cleaned, inspected and lubricated and a carbide rifling button is pulled through the hole to impress the rifling into the steel. The barrel is cleaned and inspected again before it goes on to final heat treating. Click HERE to watch the process.

We use Timney triggers on our Custom and Premier series rifles. These are very precise and reliable triggers. We use them for their reliability, adjustment range, and for the trigger shoe. The trigger shoe is where the pad of your finger rests. The wide trigger shoe on the Timney disperses the weight of the pull over a larger surface area. This gives the shooter a perceived lighter felt trigger pull. We typically set our trigger pull at 3.2 pounds and most shooters think that the trigger is more like a 2 to 2.5 pound pull. This covers the bases for safety, but also for function. There are many triggers on the market and other triggers can be ordered for Custom Series rifles if the customer has a preference.

Our B14 triggers are our own design made in our factory in Spain.

The stock that you choose to use will depend on the type of hunting/shooting that is conducted. Here is a small breakdown:

The McMillan A4 is the stock we use on the Heavy Tactical. This is a heavy stock that is designed for rifles with heavy #6 and #7 barrels as well as shooting in multiple positions, but is typically used in the prone position. It is ambidextrous, has an adjustable cheek piece, length of pull adjustment and a vertical grip.

The McMillan A3 Sporter is the stock we use on the Long-Range Hunter. This stock is a midline stock that can be used on a long range precision rifle as well as a hunting rifle. It features a ambidextrous vertical grip, high comb, and comfortable forend for both shooting offhand as well as with a bipod.

The McMillan A1-3 is the stock we use on the medium tactical. This is a step above a conventional stock and is geared towards the heavier #5, #6, and #7 barrels. It is a good all around stock with a higher comb, ambidextrous, and a comfortable traditional pistol grip.

The Brown Precision is the stock we use on the Mountain Hunter. It is strictly a hunting stock and designed to be used with #3 and #2 barrels. It has unique properties and design that help reduce felt recoil with the larger magnum calibers. This is an ambidextrous stock.

The McMillan Hunter is the stock we use on the Sport Hunter. It is a hunting stock with a higher comb, Monte Carlo type cheek, palm swell, and narrow forestock. This stock is for the #2 and #3 barrels.

The chassis stocks are highly modular and are very heavy. These are machined out of billet aluminum with plastic and steel pieces. This is modular in that the butt stock, forestock, rail systems, and adjustments can all be changed or replaced. A heavy tactical chassis will typically weigh around 18-20 lbs with a scope.

We focus on bringing you the best product that we can, while at the same time keeping the price affordable, so that everyone can afford such a great product and a great experience.

For the most part when you change barrels the fit should be tight and solid. In some rare cases you may need to contact Customer Support for a different hinge pin. Only in rare cases will you need to send your frame to us.

Yes, it will fit just fine. Keep in mind that we do not sell T/C ramrods and our ramrods are not the same as T/C’s.

No, due to federal laws the center fire barrels will only fit the Optima Elite. Any attempt to alter a barrel to fit to any gun frame not specifically designed to take it will void any and all warranties.